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Large as life
published by Susan Reynard

Theodore Holiasmenos  has learnt to trust his gut.  After 34 years in the restaurant industry he knows that small restaurants battle to survive, and that if you're going to work 18 hours a day, you may as well get maximum return on your investment.

The secret to Holiasmenos nad his business partners Rita Swart, Marius Batts, and Charl Potgieter first launched Smith & Wollensky in Eastgate shopping centre in May 2000.  The chain has no relation to the large steakhouse group of the same name in the US.

In May 2002, the 340-seater Smith & Wollensky Steakhouse in Sandton City was launched, taking up a 900m² corner location at the start of the Sandton Square skywalk.  Business is split 70% local, 30% tourist trade.  Regular customers are core to the business and eventually get to indicate their favourite table with a small plaque bearing their name.

The menu is large and varied, in keeping with local expectations, and portion sizes are generous.  In fact, GM and co-owner Charl Potgieter says nothing at Smith & Wollensky is small.  the plates are big: the knives are big: the glasses are big: and the portions are big.  A large, walk-in, tempreature controlled cellar houses a variety of local and imported wines.  Customers can order off the winlist or stroll through the cellar and choose their own vintage.

A cheese cellar at the start of the wine cellar allows customers to choose their own three or five cheese platters, to round off a meal or enjoy as a snack.  Quality meat is purchased and matured on site under tempreature and time control.  The original visible cold room at the entrance has been moved to the back and the area converted into seating.

A key component to Smith & Wollensky is te broilers.  Meat cooks in half the time and flavour locked in at 1 600°C.  The taste is distinctive and staff are specially trained to use the equipment.  The restaurant gets through five tons of meat per month, with fillet, rump and prime rib the most popular cuts.